Follow The Leader

Tom Browne Fall 2009


Polo Ralph Lauren


Levi's cardigan... Hmmm Kill City did the exact same cardigan too.

White Mountaineering... Seeing a "pattern" here?

Vintage cardigan
Henrik Vibskov - Cardigan

Thom Browne Fall 2009



Look for Jacquard knits and Norse patterns to become more and more of a trend.. Currently certain collections have been inspired from classic Norse sweaters amongst other things and with the recent influx of the very popular labels hailing from Europe's northern region over the past decade such as Cheap Monday, Acne, Henrik Vibskov, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, and a lot more. Norse patterns are being seen quite a lot these days. Most recently Thom Browne's fall 2009 show seen here helped to solidify this growing trend with some beautiful jacquard knits holding true to the similar pattern seen here. Brands like Polo Ralph Lauren have infused the classic look in some of their fall sweaters and the Japanese have definitely impacted the look with stunning brands like White Mountaineering doing everything from jacquard shoes to pants and bags. Look for this trend to get even bigger next fall.

I suppose we'll see this for some time along with another coming look I've been seeing that the Japanese were on first, currently seen in collections such as Ralph Lauren's very own Blue Label this Spring. That's a whole other discussion but take a peak below.



Seems like Dances With Wolves inspired more than a few average movie goers... Or maybe it was the current moccasin footwear craze that's all over the place currently... Just kidding. I guess we'll just have to see how this one plays into things.

Weekend Banger: Back of the Van

Corpus Spring/Summer 2009: Classic & Fun

Corpus brings a refreshing take of classic looks and modern silhouettes to the table this spring/summer '09 . I've watched this line go from primarily denim and shirts to an amazing full collection. Keith and Jerrod recently won the 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award and have been on to bigger and better strides with each new season. They recently did a presentation here in New York during fashion week at the Bowery hotel which hailed a look of fun and rebelliousness with a classy sort of dark take, almost reminiscent of James Dean had he been transplanted to modern day 2009 here in New York. From the light wash jeans to the khaki chinos, the gingham check shorts, denim shirts, the saddles saddle shoes and more Corpus is echoing a timeless classic American look while remaining modern and cool with the feel of this collection. Stay tuned to this line for big things in the future.

Heartless '09

What happens when you mix Kanye West with the Fray?



You get this:

Kanye West - Heartless The Fray cover

Enjoy!

Friday February 27th

Fresh Taste: Gala Gonzalez

I recommend taking a moment to check out Gala Gonzalez... Her daily take on fashion is always refreshing and hip. This Spanish sophisticate is never dull when it comes to new looks, inspiration and more. Take a peek http://amlul.com/ .

VMan Spring 2009

Another great issue to hit the newsstands recently; VMan Spring 2009 issue. It was nice for a change to read a fashion magazine in English as the majority of my mags have been hailing from Japan and Europe lately. Done in a better way than most American menswear magazine's out there currently. VMan does a great job of adding some fantastic articles as well as photo spreads. Not too far off the fashion cusp and not too far gone astray in the WTF category. The magazine was more than just half nude male models this issue. There was a greatly revealing photo spread of Doutzen Kroes from Sebastian Faena. Also rather amazing was the article on Raf Simmons who strikes me as nothing less than an incredible designer among the many out there today, it will be quite interesting to see if he takes the helm at Margiela here soon as the talk builds. Visit the website for the VMan blog and subscription which is appealing at the $10 a year price when compared to most other fashion magazines out there:http://www.vman.com/.

Spring Coat: Balmacaan aka The Mac

This spring when the weather is still slightly chilly and prone to periods of rain and sunshine alike, try sporting a Balmacaan coat. Also known as the Mac derived from the popular 186 year old British rainwear company known as Mackintosh. While menswear cleans up look to this classic staple to stay warm and dry. Seen quite recently at J.Crew thanks to Mickey Drexler and Co. and the emergence of "The Liquor Store"... The actual name of this coat is a Balmacaan, which refers to the Scottish estate that it was named after. The single breast and short turn over collar made this coat very popular in that region due to it's rainy climate. Pictured here is popular British menswear brand Hackett.

Look to brands such as Our Legacy, A.P.C., Engineered Garments, Steven Alan, Michael Kors, Arnys Le Forestiere and more this season to acquire one. For those who's budget is lacking visit a local Navy uniform shop and purchase one in navy or khaki for around $40. Also try vintage stores as I have seen a few good ones stocking these coats.

A.P.C. houndstooth version



Steven Alan style "Short Mac"



Our Legacy versions.. The collar on these two are slightly shorter than an original Balmacaan or Mackintosh coat, making for a more modern and sharper look while remaining classy.

Tom Ford SS09 and American Gigolo Redux

When viewing Tom Ford's Spring 09' collection I can't help but reference the 1980 film American Gigolo. A few of the boldly beautiful and flashy looks remind me of Richard Gere as a high class male escort in Beverly Hills circa the early 80's. The colors and sharply cut suits are incredible, as well as the vividly clashing patterns seen amongst the wovens and ties. Tom is channeling a sex appeal and moment in only a way that one with his very own je ne sais quois could.





When comparing Tom Ford's SS09 collection as an allusion to American Gigolo one can not go without bringing up the fact that iconoclastic designer Giorgio Armani was in a large part the man behind the look of the films wardrobe. American Gigolo helped to catapult his already growing career as a designer. Hailing from the northern Italian city of Piacenza and adding that region's effortless chic style and bravado to his collections and more. One can almost compare both designers Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani in many ways... Ford having spent 10 years bringing Italian fashion house Gucci back to the forefront along with YSL from 1994 to 2004 before starting his own fashion house under his own name Tom Ford in 2004.




A bit hard to see the full scale of what I'm talking about given these images so I would suggest watching the film.

Of course having someone such as Richard Gere helped bring the film wide acclaim and he certainly was the right one to carry those looks with ease. The look for this spring given Mr. Ford's take can only help inspire those bold and flashy feelings of Beverly Hills and Palm Springs in the late 70's early 80's. Aside from that, Tom seems to be taking chic sex appeal to the next level. Pretty much an opposite contrast when compared to another amazing designer being heralded around the world lately; with the same name (only spelled differently) and rightful so when given to tastes: Thom.

Timeless Headwear: The Beret

When a beanie just won't cut it anymore and a fedora seems to become rather played out try a beret. One can be worn with confidence and style such as Ingmar Bergman shown here. The stereotypes and translations might be endless, France, Picasso, Che, Revolution, Romance, Art, Existentialism, Special Military Forces, Spain, The Basque, Impressionism, Surrealism, Bohemians, Beatniks, Camus, Sartre, The Underground, Bob Marley, and so in. However when it comes time to stand out I suggest purchasing one and seeing if the look works for you. You can pick one up at most headwear shops and certain specialty stores and as of recently I've even seen them being sold at American Apparel in an array of colors.

For those wanting to go even further for a bit of panache try pairing the beret up with a fresh pair of frames seen here from Moscot the Lemtosh only $179.00 here online, www.moscot.com or at their retail shop in Manhattan's Lower East Side as well as one in Chelsea.

Classic Staple: Denim Jackets

A classic staple and a fresh look, the denim jacket ... They're already leaving a mark this season. And most thought denim was dead or perhaps this jacket had become cheesy when pulled off by certain people... It's all a matter of swagger. From lighter washes to natural looks and distressed ones classic denim is here to stay. Paired with a classic white tee or even a flannel this look works. Along with chambray shirts and most things classic navy and blue this spring season. For those less fortunate to purchase one from a higher end collection or brand, visit your local vintage store and look for brands such as Levi's, Lee, Carhartt, and even Woolrich to pull this piece off in a better more economic way.

American Icon: Sean Penn

Because of his bad boy cool during the 80's whether playing Spicoli or knocking out paparazzi and even wedding Madonna when she was the material girl... And more recently for winning the Oscar; not for going gay as many likely want to say but for his personification and flawless portrayal of Harvey Milk in Gus Van Sant's recent film Milk. he not only left an indelible image of a man not to be forgotten but a movement to be remembered as part of America's history.

Congratulations Sean Penn!

The Joy of Division

There's no doubt about the fact that Joy Division can be accounted for influencing numerous people and trends which are currently on display around the world and in popular culture... From Christopher Bailey and Burberry's latest ad campaign to the somber and gothic look of many collections out today... Be it the look of Alexander Wang or Chronicles of Never even Ksubi... I suggest a look into this band and who is taking their cues from this era of post punk decadence... Given the look and feel of the Smiths... The Cure and many bands alike from this time period. The band and this image can be accounted as an influence on many looks within the fashion world today.



To me it's amazing how a band with such a small time on the scene can influence countless others from looks to hooks and more.



For those feeling rather gothic or looking for their inner darkness in an artsy sartorial way this season look no further than Ian Curtis and "Love Will Tear Us Apart." Or perhaps check out OAK in Manhattan on Bond St.... The flavor of this retail smash hit tends to capture this look and brings together some of progressive fashion's best brands to date with enormous detail... Be it avant garde be it cutting edge or just plain be "It". This is a definite after thought. There are many other looks involved from Warhol's Factory to Television, Patti Smith, Bauhaus, Sonic Youth.. The influences are countless...



For those less fortunate check out the online site and get the feel as well as a look at many of the best brands currently out there right now: http://oaknyc.com/ .

Adam Christopher | New York and the Eponymous Blog

In an effort to funnel my thoughts and ideas; my frustrations and my re-iterations of the season the times, the age and more... I'm joining the endless stream of consciousness flowing from the steady list of blogs and numerous postings day in and day out within the world of the web... I hope to share my views and opinions on everything from fashion to music, from trends, haves, have nots and a lot more... Bear with me and I hope you enjoy.


"America is the only country that went from barbarism to decadence without civilization in between."

Oscar Wilde...